GROUND CONTROL.... HELP!!!

[Don Fusskinrolla]

Hey man.

You incounter a problem when u installed the struts to the coilovers and then the coilovers to the car?

How long it take u o do all 4?

how many people u had?

where u start?

got a step by step?

thanks bro!!

[Darkchylde]

I know MyToy is the one asked but I have a Ground Control setup on my ride and it went pretty smooth and easy.  I had the aid of a lift though, so it was roomy.

DC

[Don Fusskinrolla]

how long it take u?

Got a DIY? or u just follow the instructions on the Miilton book?

[sKiLLs]

Rob hasn't been around as of late, so I don't know when he will respond to your question... So you might have to experiment.  

[mantisII]

YO ADRIEN!!!!!!!!!!  if ya need a hand, holla at me, we dont live that far apart.  let me know fool.

[mantisII]

YO CHRIS, WE CAN DO THAT.

[corollamadness]

ellllkkkkkkk white castle & beer ill pass but ill like to be for da beer opps did i just say dat i mean to help out also lol

[Don Fusskinrolla]

sure am loving getting my threads jacked.... :mad:

[Darkchylde]

Ok, when you have set aside the time to do the job you will find it to come very straight forward and fairly hassle free.  To start off I am comparing this to my 95 so I am not sure of the differences.  I am not sure of your specific questions so I will give an overview attempt.
1.)Loosen the nuts to your struts from above(engine bay) and the back ones on mine I had to remove the rear seat to get to the tops. Remove the caps and loosen the bolt as well.(Loosen close to off, DO NOT remove)
2.)Lift your car and remove your wheels (one at a time if not on lift of course)
3.)Remove bolts around wheel hub to free it from bottom of strut.  Strut will not fall down because your top bolts are still on.  (without looking at my car, I cannot exactly tell you which bolts have to be removed for this, just look it over and take your time.
4.)Take off those top nuts and take strut out. (note this also has your spring around it(all as one combo) when I am referig to stut)
5.)The top bolt/nut takes of cap holding spring onto the strut. Removing spring and replacing it with the coilover spring is the goal correct. You can replace the strut now too if you are, also you may have to grind the circle metal plate if the coilover doesn't go over it exactly. Depends on strut. You'll see what I mean if it hits.
6.) You may have recieved rubber rings to go over the strut to be between the coilover and the strut to keep from knocking soud and loosness. These wear out and break at later removals and this is why my car has a noisey little giggle sound over bumps in the front.  May replace at Home Depot perhaps.
7.) place plate ontop of strut, up through holes in frame and loosely put back on nuts to hold in place.
8.) Put hub together and strut bottom(reverse that), wheels on lower and tighten top nuts fully.
****Note you may need a spring compressor if taking off stock springs, none needed for the coilover(convienent at later replacements) I don't want anyone getting hurt not adding this.*****
 
This gives you an overview at what is involved. I did mine twice so I am in no way an expert or recalling perfect picture memory. Good Luck and have help, it's more enjoyabe.

DC

[Darkchylde]

Also it didn't take that long (3 hours but I talked to people, and Sean grinded a little bit for me), but have a good afternoon or early to late morning with no time restraints to do it right and allow for issues.

DC

[Don Fusskinrolla]

lo chris... just playin! :lol:

thanks bro for the DIY!!

[Don Fusskinrolla]

well, one of the issues i'm afraid of is the strut and the coilover.

The coilovers are for the 88-92 sedan, and the KYBs are for it too.  I just don't wanna grind anything... but i may have too.  Hope i don't have too.

Pretty interesting DIY, doesn't look hard at all.  I should take like you said 3-4hours.  The First one is probably gonna be the hardest seeing how it's the first one.

Any suggestions on where i should start? Front? Back?

 :cool:

[DaCubanSkillz]

Any suggestions on where i should start? Front? Back?

 :cool:

with what DC said..i think u should start with the front cause its easier to get to and if anything goes wrong u can just put it right back, close the hood and ur done.  but thats what I would do if I never did it before...

[rolla02]

Or you can jack your car up and use 4 jackstands like I did, then have to jacks and lower the car back down on solid ground at once.  Looks really cool when you do that thou

[Darkchylde]

Da Cuban got it right, front first. SOrry if the DIY is unorganized. I am not of the Grammer type or complete setence type. I took freshman college English twice and my psych?? teacher said my papers were great but reading them is frustrating.  Now I just try and get my sis to do my documentations. She goes to OXFORD for crying out loud. They are all English!!!

I cannto recall if it was the kyb's or the tokico's I had to grind a touch.
If you do grind take it easy and make it real close fit, so when that ring is gone in a few years it keeps the giggle out!  "GET THA GIGGLE OUT!"

DC

[Don Fusskinrolla]

5.)The top bolt/nut takes of cap holding spring onto the strut. Removing spring and replacing it with the coilover spring is the goal correct. You can replace the strut now too if you are, also you may have to grind the circle metal plate if the coilover doesn't go over it exactly. Depends on strut. You'll see what I mean if it hits.
6.) You may have recieved rubber rings to go over the strut to be between the coilover and the strut to keep from knocking soud and loosness. These wear out and break at later removals and this is why my car has a noisey little giggle sound over bumps in the front.  May replace at Home Depot perhaps.

DC

Hey, talk to me more about that rubber ring.... WHERE IT GO?! :cry:

[Darkchylde]

I thought I posted this but I see it is gone already. Wierd.

Ok you have a ring? Place the ring over the strut.  Hate to be bold, but condom like.  
 
The forum text program won't keep shape of my pictogram so I will try and explain.  Place the ring near top so as you slide the coilover over the strut it will tightly slide the ring down with it towards the center.  If it isn't that tight putting over the coilover then leave the ring at the half way point from the middle to the top of strut so the coilover rubs against ring, not strut. This making it quiet.
Hope it helps

[Don Fusskinrolla]

sweet..

I tried playing around with it yesturday and i figured it out.  But i noticed that the biggest sized o-ring doesn't allow the sleeve to go on.  The middle-sized o-ring doesn't make a good tight seal either.

I think i'm gonna go to Home Depot and get a o-ring that is kinda inbetween.  I really wanna good seal there.


But i have a question?


How far down the strut should he sleeve of the coilover be?  Should the sleeve part go all the way down to the base so that the base of the strut supports the sleeve?

also:

When i take the original strut/spring combo from the car, don't i need to take out the plates to install on the NEW strut and coilover?

I plan to go around the issue of the brake line.  I think for the back i'm just gonna dremmel it and make a slit so the brake line just comes out.  I don't want the hassel of bleeding my lines.

Thanks man for your help!!  You are very helpful in explain all this stuff!! :cool:

[Darkchylde]

Yes, put the sleeve down until the strut plate supports its, otherwise it will slide itself to that point when you install it cuz the bolts won't reach the mount in the engine bay. Make sense? Just put it all the way down. Then spin your coil over bracket towareds the top of the coil itself to push the spring up as close to the car so when you put the car down your close to full normal height.  My front is still lower than stock height at full extension by about an inch.

The other question:  I can't remember.  They plate you take off the old assembly will just slide onto the coilover assembly granted you didn't get new plates to fit on top the coilover assembly.  I can't recall whether I got new ones or used the same ones.  It's been years since I in installed them when they just came out and you had to be a registered distributor to sell 'em.  There was no other company making them.  Hope it helps.

DC

[Don Fusskinrolla]

woo-hoo.... ONE MORE DAY OF WAITING!!

okay... last question:

i notice that the coilovers are different sizes.  One is taller than the other.


Does the taller one go in the back? and the smaller one goes in the front?


 :cool:
Thanks... sorry if i'm being a pain, but i kinda wanna do this in 3hours and don't want any headaches. :lol:

[Darkchylde]

That's funny, you know I never noticed but when I adjust them I think to myself "Man these look taller than those up front." Always thinking it's just a visual thing. Maybe that is why when I jack them all up I have an aggresive slant people always comment on.  I guess that is how I would answer your question. SMall up front, cuz you shoul dhave more adjustability in the rear due to variance of wieght and the front being limited to maintain engine weight upkeep.

[Don Fusskinrolla]

I took a sharp corner today and i noticed a sound comming from one of the back struts.   What could be causeing it?  any ideas?  It's only when i take a sharp corner and at a high speed when it does it.  Going straight and at moderate corners it does not...

Acutally the combo is great...  Responso has improved, and it looks wicked.

I'll have pics up soon.

[Darkchylde]

I am glad it all worked out for you.  Can you tell if the sound comes from the front or back and on the inside of the car turning or the outside(hard bank) side?  If from the front inside then I have a theory.

[Don Fusskinrolla]

the front is more than perfect.

the noise is comming from the back.  and it on the inner turning.  It only happends when i make a hard right turn.

it does a fast.. bunk-bunk-bunk-bunk, and after i straighten out it stops.

i tightened up some bolts but the noise still happens but not as loud as before.... any ideas?

[Darkchylde]

Yeah, I know what it is. it may drive you nuts but it in no way will be a problem for the car or is unsafe.  It is the weight coming off the inside tires/strut (not being forced down on plate due to sway outside losing weight of car inside)  Your sleeve is tapping the strut bottom or top because the ring is too low/too high or just too loose and ring doesn't act as buffer to quiet/stiffen movement of the sleeve.  Was the sleeve fairly easy to put of the strut? My front does this because I have no more rings on the front of my car (weathered away and broke at changing of struts)  Drives me nuts personally. You can take it off and if you find rings put more, one top on bottom, or reposition it and hope it is the right spot so you don't have to take it apart AGAIN!!.  I haven't looked for new rings yet so if you find some let me know otherwise you make the call what you want to do.  Glad you like them though.

DC